Last Saturday night I went to my first Frocktails – and what a fabulous (if slightly surreal – walking into a room full of faces that I know, it not actually really knowing anyone…) night it was.
Frocktails is like a ball for sewists – and so a new dress for my first one was a must. I wasn’t very proactive in searching for the right pattern and fabric, as I really knew that the pattern and fabric that needed to be made were both already in my stash.
Scroop Patterns is a small indie New Zealand pattern company. I think that the Henrietta Maria dress was the first pattern she released – and also think that I bought it around the time it was released – April 2016. I fell in love with it straight away – it reminded me strongly of a dress that I had made for both my girls – the Clever Charlotte Wren. Both patterns have raglan sleeves, self facings and those pleats!
Unlike the Wren, the Henrietta Maria does not have a back zipper, and has pleats at the sleeve hems (the Wren has elastic). It also has pockets (I am firmly in Team Pocket). The pleats are also formed in a different way – the Wren pleats are formed at the back of the neckline and then are stitched down, whereas the Henrietta Maria’s pleats are formed at the front and stand out away from the dress.
From the Scroop website:
Dress it up for evening in chiffon and satin, make it as your go-to summer wear in cottons or viscose (rayon), or effortless winter office wear in wool crepe. Worn loose, the top and dress are great on straight figures. Belted or tucked in, they flatter the most bodacious of curves.’
This has been on my must sew list since I bought the pattern – and the fabric was purchased not long after (from The Fabric Store). It’s a silk/viscose blend (according to my notes!) with a subtle gold pinstripe running through it. It is perfect for this dress – has drape and body, and holds the pleats beautifully.
In terms of construction, this is actually a very simple sew, pleats included. It’s listed as an intermediate pattern, but there is nothing difficult about it. It has 4 pattern pieces, including the pocket piece. The pockets are attached and sleeves are sewn to the front and back. The neckline facing is interfaced and turned down, then it’s time for the pleats – 11 on each piece (front, back, both sleeves) – I did not mark their position – I just eyeballed each one, starting with the centre pleat then halving the space between the first centre pleat and the seam line for the next.
The side seams are sewn up then the sleeve pleats are constructed – 15 on each sleeve. Again, I started with the centre pleat and continued to divide up the space evenly until all the pleats were done.
I chose to overlock the side seams before sewing them together. I also overlocked the facing edge, then turned it under and hemmed for a neat finish. The neckline is very wide, and I did include the bra strap holders as per the pattern directions, but ended up pinning them to my bra (thanks mum) to ensure it stayed in place.
I’m really keen to make another one of these – debating fabric and whether to make a top version or another dress – what do you think?
JustMeJaySews 